Step 1 (Optional)
Remove the flywheel and crank.
Step 2
Force the whistle with both thumbs to 3 o clock as far as it will go, then turn the engine and force it back to 9 o'clock. Progressively work your way around the clock and you will start to see the underside of the bush energe from the boiler. Continue to move the whistle arm and work it until the whistle can be pulled out.
Step 3.
Clamp the whistle bush in a vice and use a spanner to free the whistle from the bush. Take care not to clamp the bush too tightly as this will distort it, equally too loose and it will not come free. Separate the bush from the bottom of the whistle.
Step 4.
REVERSE the bush and put it on the end of a nut and bolt of the same thread as the whistle bush. You should now have the grooved top edge of the bush at the end of the bolt. Using a dremel cutting disc, cut the bush back leaving a 1/16" shoulder next to the locking nut.
Step 5.
Using a flat ended punch, gently work around the edge of the bush hole on the top of the boiler. Tap it back until it is as near as possible to its original position or lower. Clean around the hole using a conical dremel reamer to gain as much exposed brass on the boiler as possible. Keep the bolt on the end of the bush as this will make positioning it easier.
Step 6.
Thouroughly clean, flux and then tin both the bush and the boiler hole. Check to ensure that the solder has gone all around both the bush and the hole. Add more fluz and then put the bush back in place. Reheat and add more solder if necessary.
Step 7.
Clean the threads and base of the whistle, and soak in Viakal for 7 minutes. Put a fibre washer on either side of the whistle armature and resecure into the boiler. Steam the engine to test.